Colour Me Happy

on belay / Bouldering & Camping in Red Rocks

I would like to tell you I went to Vegas a couple weekends ago to boulder & crushed it.

Instead, what I felt like most of the time was curling up with Eisley.

Seriously, she crawled in the bag!  This is how resistant she is to lying in the dirt.

I simply wasn't climbing like I thought I would -- like I know I can -- & I was SO unhappy with myself.  I went there expecting to throw down a couple harder projects -- sandstone is my favorite to climb after all -- but the rock put me in my place.  I beat myself up (inside) most of the time.  Why am I sucking?!!  Finally, a thought occurred: maybe I'm being a little harsh on myself.  Remember my vlog about dealing with failure?  This trip I was not content throwing myself at a problem over & over, getting shut down on the same move but knowing I was getting stronger for trying.  Nope, not even a little.  I wanted to send something "hard"; so how was I going to deal with the fact I wasn't?

There are just times when your core doesn't feel all that strong, right ladies?

photo credit: David Finch

Some days 100% isn't your actual 100%.  Sometimes, you can give it everything but might have to accept, it's not happening today.  Realistically, I probably should have been going easy on my body & not straining it by bouldering.  On top of the core issue, my left shoulder had been fighting back & one of my fingers was sore from a climb at the gym.  We had already planned to go, so I was just going to push through & be mindful of my body while climbing.

photo credit: David Finch

Even though I didn't send my projects, I also didn't return from our trip with an injury.  I think part of dealing with failure is knowing when to listen to your body & accept there is tomorrow to try again.  If I do it (training) right, I'm only going to get stronger.  The boulders aren't going anywhere.  While we were there, we were already making plans to return in April, if not sooner.  This really helps me deal with failure: knowing I can return, & gathering the right information, so I know what to work on before we go back.

Dave bouldered much stronger & couldn't be closer to sending his slopey traverse project.

He can do it in two parts -- 1)going all the way across & 2)moving into the crack to top out -- he just needs to link it together.

My frustration didn't spoil our time by any means.  We were still climbing after all, plus camping is always refreshing & re-energizing.

Red Rock Campground is the most developed campsite I have ever stayed at.  We usually dirt bag it: no camp grill or benches, middle of nowhere...dig a hole, you know.  We were mere yards from an outhouse -- we actually had an outhouse -- which was equipped with solar-panels & lights!  Sort of strange.  Honestly, we prefer a more isolated, primitive setting, but this is the only option for camping in this area.  It's pretty nice though; for $15 a night, it better be.

To keep prep & clean up minimal, I made tinfoil dinners for each night from all of our CSA vegetables before we left.  I used to stick with the standard carrot, onion, & potato TFD; but I've realized nearly any vegetable will work -- even greens -- so everything I threw in, we already had on hand.  Bok choy & cabbage have been some of my favorite additions in the past.  This time we had onion, sweet potatoes, kohlrabi (so yum), & carrot.  I added a couple large collard leaves & sliced fennel to mine & crumbled vegetarian Field Roast sausages in Dave's.  Add a little seasoning, & you really can't go wrong with TFDs after an active day outdoors.  Rather than cook Eisley's food beforehand, I even made TFDs for her: ground turkey, sweet potato, & carrot.  Spoiled much?

We only bouldered in Red Rocks at the Crafts Boulders, but it is also known for amazing sport routes & stellar multi-pitch crags.  Maybe we'll take more gear with us in April...maybe sooner, because it's been snowing in Flagstaff again.  Guess our break from winter is over.

on belay / Bouldering Trip

Schools starts on Tuesday, so we are taking advantage of this three-day weekend & heading to ...

But not that Vegas.

We will be spending the weekend camping & bouldering in stellar Red Rocks.  I have only been there once, about three years ago, when I first started climbing.  It will be neat to see how far I've come.

I love sandstone.  We'll be back with stories & photos.

We are officially

U.N.P.L.U.G.G.E.D.

(you should too.)

on belay / Rappelling

With my thoughts still fresh on my family & the time I was able to spend with them in Utah, I thought it fitting to share the climbing-related activity I grew up doing with my family:

Rappelling.

This means a controlled descent down a rock face with the use of a rope.

People use rappelling for canyoning/canyoneering, wilderness rescue, military training & missions, & recreation (like my family).

Now, unless we are out with my family, we don't rappel for the sake of rappelling.  It serves a purpose related to our climbing.  "Rapping" is often used to come back down after a climb.  Sometimes we even rap into a canyon & climb out.

Rappelling is generally done with the use of a tubular device, like an ATC (air traffic controller), or a Figure 8.  I also prefer to wear gloves.

[photos compiled from source]

The ATC on the left is a light-weight device with a smooth edge that works nicely for rappelling.  We use the ATC in the middle for belaying & rappelling. The rope moves along the smooth side when rappelling; turn it 180 degrees, & the ridged edge is used for belaying.  I grew up using a Figure 8, like the one on the right when rappelling with my family.  I believe this was one of the first designs; it can also be used to belay but has a tendency to twist the rope, so an ATC is generally considered easier & safer to use for belaying.

Perhaps the next time we are climbing, we will video a little tutorial so you can see how an ATC works.

Overcoming Mental Barriers & "Failures" (vlog)

While out bouldering yesterday, I decided to take a break & try to answer a question a friend had posed.

I hope you find it helpful or at least interesting.

 

I think it is important to remove the ego & not dwell on the "finish line" all the time.  Every time you challenge yourself, you become stronger -- even if you don't succeed. 

One of the things I love about rock climbing is the sense of presence it helps me reach.  If I focus too much on the end, I will get distracted & may never reach it...not to mention, miss out on the climb along the way.  The climb is what it's all about.  Those little successes & failures are what it's all about.

Enjoy & embrace those moments of growth, even when it means you are falling flat on your butt.

on belay / Types of Rock Climbing

The first thing I ever climbed was the corner of a sandstone rock wall, by jamming my feet & hands into a crack.  I remember thinking this is different than I expected. 

A few years ago, I had no idea bouldering existed; now, I've sort of become a bouldering snob. 

There is a lot more to rock climbing than you might realize -- more than I realized before I got into it -- & a lot of different styles to experience.  Sometimes people don't quite understand exactly what it is Dave & I are doing that we love so much.  I don't want to get too technical or in depth right away.  Instead, here are brief, (hopefully) simple descriptions of the main types of climbing I am passionate about.

Bouldering is done without a rope, with the use of pads & generally a spotter to assist with falls.  As a spotter, you are not really trying to catch the boulderer but make sure your climber doesn't land on his/her head & make the fall less impactful if possible.  There are plenty of times I feel like Dave catches me though, but really he is just slowing down the fall, if that makes sense.  The climbs are called "problems".  In comparison with other forms of climbing, I usually tell people bouldering is sort of like sprinting versus long-distance running.  Problems are shorter (than routes); & generally each move is more powerful, because you are doing fewer of them.  Bouldering is a great way to develop good technique when learning to climb; it builds great strength & power too.

"Routes" are climbs usually done with a rope & harness & are generally longer than "problems".  While there are other types of route climbing, I'm going to stick to the two I'm most familiar with today.

Sport climbing is done with the use of equipment & bolts that have been bolted to the rock. 

As you climb, you carry quickdraws on your harness.  Each end has a carabiner.  One end is clipped to the bolt; the other end is clipped to your rope.  This is called lead climbing.  If you fall, the rope will catch you at your last clipped bolt.  This can be only a few feet, or people sometimes take "whippers" of up to 20+ feet depending on how often/close they are clipping bolts.

Traditional climbing -- usually referred to as trad -- does not use bolts in the rock.  Rather, you place your own gear (Camalots, Stoppers, etc.) into cracks or fissures.  One side has the actual  gear you place into the rock; the other side has a carabiner, which you clip to the rope.  The same rules for lead climbing apply here, meaning the rope will catch you at your last placed piece of gear, should you fall.

Once someone reaches the anchors, you can also top rope a climb.  Now the rope goes from your belayer, up to & through the anchors (actually quickdraws/draws hanging from the anchors) & back down, tying into the climber's harness.  Now your belayer is essentially pulling his end of the rope down & through the ATC device (I'll talk more about this crucial device in a later post) as you climb.  If you let go or fall, you should fall only inches (due to rope stretch) because the rope is now above you.

~

Photo Credit for all photos: David Finch (other than the one he is in).

on belay / Free Climbing vs Soloing

Before we get too far into this climbing business, I should probably address one of Dave's pet peeves & clear up soloing vs free climbing.

While free climbing, you may or may not be using equipment & you have a belayer to back you up in case of a fall.  You are also climbing the features of the rock, not the gear.

If you are soloing, you do not have a belayer to back you up.  If we want to get more nit picky, free soloing means no rope, no gear, & no belayer.  Aid soloing still means no belayer, but you are climbing with the aid of gear.

If you want to see soloing in action, check out these climbers.

 

It takes a specifically wired person to free solo.  I'm not such a person.  After watching that video, you might be thinking what I thought the first time I saw a climber solo.  C-RA-ZY.

Then I came across a quote from the late free soloist Michael Reardon about his ascent of Romantic Warrior:

"And when I was done, I reached an understanding that whether our time on this plane is our only existence, or the body is merely a vessel for the next stage of development, our existence is only a moment."

I get what he said.  It doesn't convince me to solo, but I get the appeal.  Even though I use equipment like a rope or bouldering pads, focusing on the imminent, present moment is a huge part of climbing for me.  Maybe the sense of presence I reach is not as pure or as intense as soloists, but I still reach it.

However, deep water soloing...this I could do.  [at about 3:45, Sharma is doing this in case you are wondering what it is].

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First Friday, On Belay

Every once in awhile someone asks me for climbing tips, workouts, or clarification, which gave me a wonderful idea:

I am going to share something climbing related every Friday.

I'll go over basic terms, techniques, how to get started, training, injury prevention, stories, & whatever else comes to mind.  Because climbing jargon doesn't make a lot of sense outside of the climbing community, next week, I'll explain some general terms & styles of climbing.  Today, I thought I would share a little of my climbing background.

I grew up rappelling with my family, but the first time I ever tied a rope to my harness to go up was in Indian Creek, Utah in 2007.  It was completely different than I expected climbing to be (because crack climbing is completely different).  To say I was immediately drawn to it would be a bit of an exaggeration...sort of.  It was challenging & such a fun trip, but it hurt.  My skin hurt. My hands hurt. My muscles hurt.  When we returned home though, it was only a matter of days before my hands were sweating to get back on the rock.  Dave warned me this would happen.

Dave has been climbing for over 10 years.  He shared this passion with me when we met, & it clicked.  We clicked.  As we started dating, it became one of the main ways we spent our time together.

Our beloved Maple, Utah

Initially I was drawn to sport climbing.  After an ankle sprain from bouldering, I felt more comfortable tied into a rope; & because Dave was such a strong climber, he could put up more difficult routes for me to top rope until I was ready to lead.  I got better at climbing routes than at bouldering more quickly.  Throughout 2007 & 2008, we were primarily climbing outside, which meant nice gains in technique; but I knew if I wanted more strength, I needed to spend more time in the gym. 

Between massage school & Dave breaking his toe early in 2009, I didn't climb as much as I wanted or make huge gains, but I didn't backslide either.  Dave has always been more of a boulderer, & I started to follow suite.  It was just more convenient with our schedules, & it helped immensely with my confidence & strength.  Once I graduated from my program, I amped up my climbing, incorporated strength training, & got bigger gains pretty quickly -- just in time for our honeymoon, which could only take place in an amazing climbing destination.

Early last year, we spent a month climbing in Tonsai, Thailand.

Jens Falkstrom climbing Café Andaman 7a+ (5.12a) by David Finch

Even when we decided to leave Utah, climbing was a major factor in determining where we would move.

I have been pushing myself more this past year, focusing my training, climbing regularly, & embracing new challenges like leading trad.  Obviously, this is a passion of mine, & I'm excited to share it here.  I hope you enjoy it, even if it's just a little weekend climbing story.

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